Day 2

In retrospect, my previous day consisted of one determined effort to reach the ferry. I hadn't had the time or opportunity to test myself previously, so knew not my capability. I know myself to be confident, with the drive to push on when needed, but lacked that certainty against time. In the end I covered the 37 miles or so of rolling Sussex hills, pedalling over 23 stones in total weight in 6.5 hours, arriving well before the ferry departure. My focus on getting there didn't allow me the ability to enjoy my surroundings as much as I should have. Time won't be much of a factor once on mainland Europe and I'll be free to appreciate it more.

The Newhaven to Dieppe ferry has plenty of lounge areas with reclining seats. They can go back, but not enough to be comfortable. Several people settled down to sleep on the floor. I took to the recliner and spent the night constantly turning as some part or another of me began to ache. I finally sat up shortly before the announcement that we were approaching Dieppe. It was dark outside, 5:00 am French time, then we docked. Soon I had Toby and we waited to leave behind the vans and lorries. It was still dark ... and very cold.

I'd had problems with something rubbing the front wheel during the last few miles through Sussex. I cycled from the ferry port to the town which hugs the pretty harbour that I fondly remember visiting as a boy. I found a bus shelter, thankfully out of the cold wind. All around was quiet, apart from a taxi idling a short way off, keeping the driver warm while he waited for business.

Stripping the baggage from the bike revealed that the front rack had dropped onto the mudguard, and this was rubbing on the wheel. Tiredness, the cold and dark made me want to sort out the immediate problem so that I can get moving. Adjustments made and the bike repacked, I was off again. The day by now was dawning.

Dieppe Harbour Shortly After Sunrise

The original plan was to give me plenty of time to get to Newhaven for the 11:00 pm ferry so that Toby could travel the 5 hour crossing asleep and then give me plenty of time to move away from the port the following day. I hadn't appreciated how little sleep I'd get, nor how cold the nights could be in May. Physically I was fine, mentally I was very tired and needed rest. I didn't have that luxury and had to press on.

My tired and confused state made me miss my turn. I had seen a barrier marked with child friendly motifs that I thought to be a park and closed. If I had approached however, I would have noticed the two part barriers were staggered to allow bicycles onto an off road track. That mistake led to a few miles of road that was now becoming busy with commuter traffic.

It was a cold, damp morning and was further unpleasant in having to share the road with bigger and faster road users. It was also stressful in that Toby was upset by it and would not sit still (he was restrained to a degree by his lead which was attached to stop him falling out). His movement in the basket or his instability due to him standing made controlling the bike very difficult. This was a tough start emotionally.

My dawning moment came when I was turned right by my GPS onto a path with signs that I now recognised. I soon entered another world. The stress of riding on the busy road quickly ebbed away as I rode alone, being so early in the day.

Greenway Sign On Cycle Path Taken Later In The Day

I was still cold. The cycling didn't help to warm myself, having to ride into the stiff breeze, despite the effort needed. The sun was rising, it was pleasant, but stayed cold for most of the morning. I stopped and hugged Toby in the sun to try and get us both warm. Some primary schoolchildren were playing across the small village, oblivious to the cold morning.

Greenway Cycle Route South Of Dieppe With School Centre Rear

Off again, this time with purpose as it was a beautiful day and the scenery was it's match. All around was greenery and pasture. Hills rose high in the distance either side. I soon fell under it's charm, we were warming and all was well.

I was to learn that I was on an old railway that once ran from Dieppe to Paris. It had a gentle incline that was continuous for the long miles that were to be my day.

Gentle Gradient Of The Greenway

It was easy riding that allowed me to take in my surroundings and enjoy the tranquility it gave. My world brightened from gold to white light as we progressed. Each colour and tone deepened and became more distinct. The visual richness and beauty, the peacefulness of it all, saw the miles roll by.

View From The Greenway

I would regularly put Toby down when I walked a while, just for a change in the use of my legs. He would sniff around in his usual contented way and then would often press on when called back to the bike. He was happy jogging along at my steady pace. When he started to flag a little, I would stop and give him a drink and then offer him a ride. He generally headed on. We had the luxury of the track largely to ourselves so that he could do so.

View From The Greenway

I started to feel hungry and needed to eat. I hadn't had anything but water since Toby ate my McDonald's. I saw that a village lay a few kilometres ahead. Better still, when I arrived it indicated a boulangerie and patisserie. The bait was fully taken and I was hooked and lured off track.

I cycled the 20 metres to the edge of the village. A further sign indicated right. I cycled until I was out the other side, then backtracked and turned up every side road I encountered until I ended up where I started. A van driver stopped in the middle of the road as I obviously looked confused and needed help. He got out, door left wide open, there was no other road user to consider. I asked in my basic French for directions to the bakers. He pointed left. I indicated to the sign pointing right. He shrugged in a way as to say he hadn't the words to explain and again pointed left. I thanked him and we departed with waves. In a few metres and just around the corner I came across an Épicerie, a grocers, which was the local mini-mini-mart. They had no bread, I had just seen the last baguette leave.

With a cold can of Pepsi, some sweet cinnamon flavoured biscuits and a pain au chocolat in hand, I headed back to the track. There lay a small picnic area just as pleasant as those that I had passed earlier.

The Pepsi was soon gone. I took a more leisurely pace in eating a few biscuits and my patisserie. Toby played patiently while his turn would come. Rested and fed, we again set off on our way.

A small meandering river joined me occasionally to see how I was getting on, while it passed it's day rippling gentle in the direction from which I came. Both pleased to see each other and greetings exchanged, we went our respective ways.

Water, oh precious water, where are you?

The sun was high and the day warming nicely. My frequent stops for sips of water had reduced my supply to an inch remaining. The occasional house dotted my route close by, which offered solace. I called at several without response until I finally encountered one with windows open as well as the shutters. An old lady answered the door and she was pleased to help me with my polite request. On handing me my full water bottle, I explained the purpose of my journey and she wished me well. On returning to the bike, Toby and I drank. A quarter gone, it would be rude to return for a top up.

I cycled on, much as I had before, but now aware of the need to keep up my water supply. At a road crossing sat a little park at which I hoped in vain to find water. As I passed the trees to the junction, the sight of a grand châteaux on my left caught my eye. Obviously something of a tourist attraction. I wasn't that kind of tourist.

Château de Mesnières-en-Bray

On I went, noticing the distance to the towns in both directions. Then came one I'd eagerly anticipated, 32km or 20 miles from Dieppe. I was still climbing.

Looking Back - Twenty Miles From Dieppe

Now and again a cyclist would pass me at speed. They invariably were fitter than me and far more experienced riders, but the weight I was pushing was far greater than theirs. I was surprised during my one fully loaded trial, that weight wasn't too much an issue, at least for gentler inclines. A similar work effort was translated through lower gears, resulting in a lower speed. As the slope increased, however, there came a point when suddenly the weight became noticeable to downright heavy as it approached a 10% slope I would guess. The price to pay was extra effort at times, but generally just speed, hence time.

It was now early afternoon. Physically I was in good shape, mentally I was tired. My thoughts turned to where to stop for the night. I came across a small public camping area right on the track. It looked fine, but was isolated. There was a well, I didn't explore further to see if it contained water and moved on.

I was approaching Neufchâtel-en-Bray, the first major town en-route. A massive Leclerc to my right notified me of my arrival. I contemplated shopping there, but what to do with Toby and the bike? I went on.

Skirting Neufchâtel-en-Bray, I passed beyond and beneath the A28, the motorway which runs from Abbeville toward Rouen. Several kilometres on was the place where I would spend my night, around 27 miles from where I started. I also needed to revisit the issues I had with my bike rack, but that would have to wait for the morning.

Never would I have thought to be so pleased to see a public loo, but I was pleased. It sat on the edge of a small park that once housed herb plots. These had disappeared over time. To the front of the toilet block were two shallow sinks, more importantly, two clean water taps.

I pushed my bike over to the solitary bench and unpacked my Kelly kettle and the requisites to make myself a coffee. Even in the well kempt area lay enough twigs and dried stems to produce boiling water within minutes of my arrival. A stainless steel mug of hot coffee made with coffee granules, coffee mate and a splash of cold water was well received. Powders were necessary to keep weight down, not that I managed that very well otherwise.

Park And Public Loo At Neuville-Ferrières

I felt that I needed to stop for the night and this was as good a place as any. I saw an old lady in the garden that backed onto the park. I asked if it would be OK to camp here. Her shrug said what business was it hers. I pitched my tent in a secluded corner.

Tent Pitched In Park

I cooked some pasta and regretted my choice to pack it. I'd put it in a pan with boiling water and allowed it to soak rather than boiling it again in the pan. A starchy exterior, unintendedly al dente inside. I tried a little with curry powder which was even worse. Toby ate well, he was doing well out of me.

It was only mid afternoon, far too early to settle down for the night. The track was busier now with walkers, groups of leisurely cyclists, or those pushing themselves harder. Toby and I lay on his blanket in the dappled shade of a tree coming into leaf. The sun was high, sky blue, it was a glorious day. The afternoon wore on into early evening. All was quiet once again.

One major consideration for the Kelly kettle was for hot water to wash. I had a fabric wash basin which packed down into a small bag. I unpacked it and filled it 2/3 full with 8 litres of cold water and two lots of 1.6 litres of boiling water from the kettle, adjusted to the right temperature with cold water. This with my coffee mug was to be my shower. I also had packed a small kneeling mat.

In my quiet corner I stripped to my waist and shampooed my hair before taking the opportunity to wash the rest of myself. Using the mug I rinsed myself down before using a light but effective microfibre towel. Job done, nobody noticed, or would have noticed, unless they had the intention to do so.

My day was coming to an end. All was packed into the tent and the bike locked to a fence post. It was only 7:30 pm and still warm. Rather than blowing up the air bed, I thought I'd try just using my sleeping bag, Toby on his folded blanket beside me. Seemingly fine, I rested until it was dark enough to sleep. The sun dropped, as did the temperature very soon after. I was warm in my sleeping bag, but the ground now felt hard.

I reached for the air bed and blew it up, well worth carrying. I pulled Toby beside me to keep him warm and slept.