Day 3

It was a peaceful night. I woke once to hear the sound of gnawing, I thought to be the cable securing my bike. Investigation showed it to be something beyond the hedge. I returned to bed.

The sun was up when I rose. It was another beautiful day. I got things out for breakfast, the Kelly kettle doing it's magic once more. I drank my coffee while I made porridge in the way I had the pasta. Porridge oats, coffee mate and sucralose, the sweet and incredibly light part of natural sugar, together with boiling water to soak. The result was a sweet liquidy substance with al dente oats, not right, but not unpleasant. I need to change my cooking method as it clearly doesn't work.

Breakfast of Porridge And Coffee

Having eaten breakfast and fed Toby, I turned to the bike. I lay Toby's blanket out in front of the bench before inverting the bike over it. I was not going to lose anything.

The problem stemmed from a lack of fixing points on the front forks. I had chosen the bike model in 2017, knowing that there would be an option of disc brakes on the subsequent version the following year. I was not going to risk the Alps with a heavy load with standard rim brake pads. The upgrade came at a detriment to the number and location of fixing points.

Whereas the 2017 model had fixing points at the bottom of the forks which were used to fix the mudguards and another set further up, the 2018 disc brake version lost those at the bottom and the mudguard fixings were moved to the higher ones. The Giant front pannier rack accessory thus wouldn't fit the newer model.

Front Wheel - Giant Escape City Disc 2018

In the meantime I had also acquired a puppy. He would need a place to travel which led to me buying a Surly Nice Rack V2. This has a huge range of fixing positions, but frustratingly the single mounting point pair on the Giant was in its single blind spot. I thus used rubber sleeved pipe fixing clamps to provide four fixing points on the tapered forks for the rack. This seemed solid enough at the time and in initial test. In the longer term this was proved to be insufficient.

The aim of my modifications that morning were to provide a more solid fixing for a pair of the rack brackets by using the mudguard fixing points. I would fix the mudguards elsewhere, with cable ties if necessary. Unfortunately, the lower clamp would remain in compression at the fixing point, rather than being in the more stable tension. I still did not have triangulation and knew that was a weakness, having to rely on stiffness elsewhere. These things were to become my undoing.

Modified Rack Fixings (Compromised As Too Close Together)

The crack in the basket was not as bad as it looks as there is a board inside which is fixed to the rack to support Toby on his blanket.

 

The blanket catch all largely did its work well. However, there was one point where I dropped an essential hexagonal bit and it immediately disappeared. I looked around the blanket. I lifted everything I had placed there. I tilted the bike to look beneath and any part of the bike that the bit may be caught. Nowhere to be found. I walked around the bike where I eventually saw it on the opposite side beneath buttercup leaves, some 18 inches from the edge of the well spread blanket. How do these things happen?

While I took the tent down and packed everything ready to go, I thought of things I could leave behind next time. Instead I discovered another to pack. A small rag to wipe down the underside of the groundsheet rather than having to wait for it to dry. Another problem was that the bags all needed repacking as I had rummaged for the few things I needed and now could not get everything back. It would be 3:00 pm before I was on my way.

I filled my water bottles and bade farewell to the public loo, appreciated by a user and cared for by an attendant that morning. We were off once more.

The Toilet Block At Neuville-Ferrières

The day started as an extension to yesterday. I was happier with the rack as I hoped the more secure fixing would resolve the problems I'd had. My surroundings were as pretty as the day before, if not prettier. The only issue I hadn't encountered before was that by now the afternoon breeze had picked up.

Following The Greenway

I cycled, Toby ran. I saw noticeboards about the planets and stars similar to others I'd seen previously. I finally stopped to read one. If I had read one earlier I would have understood that their spacing was relevant. It wasn't clear, however, as to which point in our solar system my current position related to. I pressed on.

The Solar System

There were more railway relics along this stretch. I had seen old stations, now houses or cafes, or the short section of rail track, but not the waymarkers and signals.

Old Rail Signal

Then suddenly it all ended. I was approaching Forges-les-Eaux.

The Greenway (Having Travelled From Top Left To Bottom Right)

My path became bitty for a while, then back onto small roads. I emerged onto a main road and saw a large Super U to my left. There was a fuel court which like so many in France was manned by a service booth. I asked the attendant if they would mind watching over Toby and the bike while I shopped briefly. Having agreed, I chained the bike to the gas cylinder racks and headed inside.

Fresh orange juice, two still warm baguettes, a pack of pain au raisins, ham, butter and Dijon mustard flavoured mayonnaise. What a day this was going to be, but it turned out not the one I had hoped.

Having rewarded Toby with a chunk of bread and a drink for being so patient, and even managing some for me this time, we moved on.

The track passed across the road, now to my right, curved around, then crossed the road again a couple of hundred metres to my left. Rather than back track, I chose to take the main road and rejoin my route lower down. This brought forward my inevitable downfall.

Between the two points was a section of roadworks, including a temporary road. This was badly uneven. The jolting caused the clamp to buckle, resulting in the rack to rotate forward and left around the central fixed points. I carried on through the roadworks intending on looking at it in a quieter place. No sooner than I was in a residential side road than the front wheel stopped and I fell sideways.

I was clipped to the pedals, this looked bad. Fortunately, I managed to free my right foot and caught my fall. Unfortunately, Toby continued out of the basket to be hung by his restraining lead. Perhaps his back end managed to touch ground, or maybe he was lucky, as it was I grabbed him and he was unharmed. I knew I couldn't go on, but I had to find somewhere to stop for the night.

I needed water. A toilet block as before would be ideal. My path crossed a river twice not so far ahead. I got us going and continued, the rubbing was very noticeable now.

The first crossing provided nothing suitable, the second coincided with a small town named Haussez. I thought this my best bet.

I passed through the town, as no-one was around as is typical in France, to survey the river area. On seeing that it wasn't suitable, I returned the short distance back to the town. A woman was updating the noticeboard outside the primary school. I approached her and explained my problem. She pointed me to the Mairie where I explained once more. The mayor was unconcerned for my plight. Soon a second man arrived who could speak English. They told me that camping was not allowed here and that the nearest place was Forges-les-Eaux, some 16 kilometres back and through which I had passed. I explained I couldn't travel that far due to the problem with my bike. They went in and closed the door on me.

Had the French changed that much after all the years that I had travelled and known France and its people? I had never known them to be so indifferent. I pushed on, feeling even more dejected as the evening was drawing near.

The next village ahead was Ménerval. Not too far distant as French villages tended to be small but frequently spaced. I eyed the neat village green with the common boule court and concrete ping ping table. I looked further as I was becoming desperate now. I saw two medium sized bikes laying on a bank. They wouldn't be there long if left unattended back home. A younger family amongst the many old people left in the villages. I approached seeking help, outlining my problem, but not confident after my previous encounter.

Ménerval Village Green

I was received with the typical French welcome that I had previously known. Cautious at first, but more welcoming as trust took hold. I wanted a place to pitch my tent and access to water. The adjacent field looked inviting.

Instead, I was shown a place the secure back garden. There was a phone call as I explained my story. Shortly thereafter four men arrived, fellow farmers with tools in hand.

They asked about the problem, then looked at my bike. Adjustments were made as I had done previously, I knew they would only be temporary, but I was grateful for their help and most of all, gratified by their genuine concern. Thank yous were made and they departed.

My Refuge For The Night In Ménerval (Far Left Corner)

I prepared to set up my tent. No sooner than I had, when the offer of a shower and dinner were made. I was being treated like family.

I started to erect the tent, their 14 year old son, Paul, whose bike I had first noticed, looked keen to help. I offered tent pins, he soon caught on as to what was necessary. The tent soon stood ready for my night. The family were impressed by its high tech look. We chatted a while and then I was then left alone to sort myself out.

I joined the family for a convivial supper, fed Toby outside with some leftovers, then took a most welcome shower. It was late and a school day. I bade goodnight and was set to leave when a bed was offered. I thanked them most kindly, but said that my tent awaited. The offer was repeated, I assured them I would be fine and left for the night. I was told that coffee and breakfast would be at 8:00 am. I have been told many times back home what a miserable bunch the French are. I listen, but knew from experience that the generosity and willingness to help was far closer to the truth if only we reach out part way.

It was a cold night again, but warm as usual in my sleeping bag. Toby was hugged even closer as a result of the love that I had been shown and the feelings it left. My farewell was four kisses, not the two common ones, or three for close friends, but four for family. What a turn around in my emotions from just hours previously (I was told later that my earlier desperation showed in my eyes).

I slept confident that tomorrow would be a more positive day. My friend Veronique was currently South near Lyon and due to return back to the UK the following day. Earlier communication meant that a rescue plan was set.